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Alfama old section
Alfama the most ancient section of Lisbon, Alfama quarter, the place where Lisbon started thousands of years ago, with Romans,
Visigoths, Arabs and obviously our beloved Portuguese. It's on the south slope of Saint George's hill, facing the river, and the
slide-way means lots of stone stairways to go up and down. Crooked and narrow streets with roofs nearly touching each other,
grant inhabitants familiarity with the neighbor. It defied time and earthquakes, and it's here that we can step back in time, breath in
the past and see the curious structure of the medieval town, of how Lisbon used to look like before. It developed disobeying to any
built-up plan. Just the additions of several generations, since the time of Romans and Arabs. It's like a maze.
This provides tourists the possibility to get lost and stay here a little longer, in the homeland of sailors, navigators and merchants,
since a lot of them lived
here in the 13 and 14 centuries. Some streets are so narrow, that only one person can get through at a time. They don't need to
leave their homes to talk to the neighbors. This kind of structure keeps houses cool in the summer and traffic jams away all year
round. Alfama comes from an Arab name. It means source of water. In fact, this reminds us towns in many Arab countries. And
the many fountains in this quarter still provide inhabitants with a pure water to drink. We can feel the picturesque atmosphere
with the laundry hanging at the windows, cages with birds singing, sardines grilling, children playing In June, the quarter gets
decorated with paper flowers, for the celebrations of saint Anthony, Saint John and saint Peter, with the processions you saw
before. It's when we feel the liveliness and cheerfulness of the Portuguese, watching dancing late in the evening until sunrise amid
the strong smell of grilled sardines, that go well with the nice Portuguese red wine. And listen to them singing and yelling in the
streets.
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TRANSPORTATION
Ferry boats There are long and short trips we can take on the river, depending on the kind of boat we chose. Most of them take between 15 and 30
minutes but if we take a tourist boat they can take more than 2 hours. There are fast boats here, but we are taking a ferry, something that Lisboans got
used to a long time ago. It was the only way to cross the river before the 1960's, when the first bridge was built. Commuters come to work in Lisbon early
in the morning. Thousands of people arrive to Lisbon every day by ferry. They come with the sunrise early in the morning, even when its foggy, and
nobody think of the nostalgia of the past history of sailors. Portuguese are hardworking people, although the inhabitants of Lisbon are known as the
lettuce eaters. A name that is often related to the peaceful and friendly manners of this people that can be connected to the quietness of the estuary.
The promenade is an unforgettable one. It doesn't look like we are on a river. Although the ocean tides arrive here and most of the water comes from the
ocean, there are no waves and we enjoy a pleasant tour, watching Lisbon from the river like sailors used to do in the past from the caravels. Tagus River
used to be navigable for some 30 km further up where boats went to load cereals, thus giving the name to the mouth, the straw sea, which can also be
related to the golden reflections of the water. This river comes from Spain, like most of the big rivers in Portugal, and although it had a different course in
the past, it will remain for a long time like a brooch of the history of Lisbon.
The harbor The harbor of Lisbon, more than 20km long, already a stop for maritime people like Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians, thousands of
years ago, is now close to all routes of big vessels crossing North Atlantic. It was the busiest in the world during the Portuguese discoveries and an
important site for all Portuguese boats coming and going to the former Portuguese colonies.
Double-deckers Well, we are going back onto dry land. We could take a carriage, but for the moment we are taking a double-decker, a kind of bus that
used to abound in Lisbon in the 3rd quarter of the 20-century as a regular mean of transportation for the locals. They are now tourist buses and they run
all year round. We can take them both in the summer and winter, due to the nice and mild climate of Lisbon. In fact, the temperature never falls below
zero, and the summer is always freshened by cool breezes of the ocean. It's when we breathe the good smell of the sea, in this arboreal city with green
even in the winter. We have several means of transportation doing dozens of different tours in Lisbon, every day, without exceptions. We then realize
how vast and charming this city is. Because of the nonexistence of skyscrapers this city hasn't so many crowded places like other capitals, and its ample
and extensive. We enjoy the nice maritime breeze of the ocean and the river, in a capital that is definitely not smoggy as other capitals, but often cooled
and cleaned by the natural clouds coming from the Atlantic. Although big buses can not go through the crooked and narrow streets of the ancient town,
which is mostly located near the river, we can take a glimpse at them and compare how Lisbon has evolved lately, with the white limestone of ancient
monuments and soft colors of previous periods often giving place to gaily colors and conceptual shapes of current architecture. 3-Transportation (Santa
Justa elevator) We are changing again the transport to a more standing one. It means the elevator built by the school of Eiffel in the end of the
19-century. It connects downtown with a hill and from the top we have a nice view. It is now almost but not all obsolete for the inhabitants as the main
clients are now tourists. As it stands in the middle of the shopping area is always running, giving an antique look to this already elderly section, with its
familiar art nouveau style, similar to other constructions in Portugal.
Funiculars For the hills, we have another ride: funiculars. Sometimes it's not easy to go up the hills walking and we take a funicular. The result is always
a nice view from the top. They go through the narrow streets to reach the peak and when one is going up, the other one is going down, because in the past,
the weight of the one going down pulled the other going up. You can also take the funicular to go down, but as the Portuguese say ?All saints help to go
down.
Trams We change again but we keep in the same family. Now we take a tram, another typical ride in Lisbon. These trams were never eradicated in this
city and in fact we even have new ones here. They don't pollute and they are safe. Yes, they almost never have an accident. We have the big and modern
ones for the long and wide avenues and we have these old ones for the ancient part of the town. This ancient, tram, is the only way to go to the old
section of the city, through the narrow streets, some of them so narrow, that only this cozy and little tram can handle. The old trams were first made by
the enterprise making those of San Francisco. Because they run with electricity, the Lisboans often call them electricos. Sometimes the street is so
narrow that there is even only room for one. So, it has to wait for the other to get through before diving ahead, in the adventure of another thin street.
LISBON PARADES
Lisbon parades (Saint Anthony festival) They take place on the eve of 13th of June every year. It's the day of Saint Anthony, who was born in
Lisbon. Actually, in June there are the feasts of the so-called popular saints of Portugal, which are Saint Anthony, Saint John and Saint Peter. The most
important is Saint Anthony. Each quarter makes a procession and they are more than 20. The celebration goes on all night long?
2-Lisbon parades (change of the National Republican Guard) We have another spectacular show in Lisbon, which is the change of the National
Republican Guard in front of the Presidential palace. We have it every month. This guard is connected to the Portuguese Republic, which exists since
1910, after the end of the monarchy.
TRADE
Trade (Ribeira market) Let's see the commerce of Lisbon. This is the biggest, the most ancient and the most typical market of Lisbon. It's still a busy
one, which opens at 5 a.m., and here you find everything including a nice mood and friendship. Even if you don't want to spend your money, everybody
welcomes you with opened arms. The Portuguese are very much known for hospitality and goodwill for everybody without exception. Our country has
been one of merchants and negotiators. They had an important role in the Portuguese history and they still account a lot for the Portuguese economy.
Despite the fact that many hypermarkets were opened all around the place, we still see many of this kind of markets in town. Fish is good but the main
dish is codfish.
Flee market We also have a flee market since 1882, close by saint Engracia church. Here you can find everything less expensive and second-hand stuff.
They are not tricky in trading, but if you want you can bargain the price. Yes, because among many new items, you always find those kind of things the
others don't need anymore. This works like a cash converter to many people and anybody is free to trade here. And like everything that is old and
traditional it stands near the river.
Shopping areas In the traditional shopping area of Lisbon, close by the castle, shops are opened since the time of the Romans, for more than 2000
years. It's still the forum of Lisbon, in spite of many other shopping areas that developed here and there. It's all decorated with lights during Christmas
time. Although they close here by night, you can find many opened till almost 12 p.m. in the many shopping malls, everyday, including Sundays and
public holidays. We have some of the biggest in Europe. Most of them were opened quite recently, with fine-looking décors, and work as a symbol of the
recent boom of the economy, so much echoed in the capital.
SQUARES
Commerce square A square is the mirror of a city. And to show you how graceful this city is, we start by Trade Square, close to the river, the entrance
of Lisbon for caravels and galleons in the past. There is Glory crowning Fame and Victory at the top of the Triumphal Arch with statues of important
people of Portuguese history. It's like an entrance to the shopping area behind the square and it is in due proportion with the square, the most elegant one,
another badge of this city. In the middle, the equestrian statue of king Joseph. He was king during the earthquake of 1755, since this square was rebuilt
afterwards. This was the most famous square in the world in the 16 century, where king Manuel, who had his palace here, used to ride elephants in front
of boats arriving from different parts of the world. This was one of the most famous squares in Europe, the entrance of Lisbon when people and trade
used to arrive by sea. It was a point of reference for many navigators and discoverers.
Figueira square Figueira square is another in the heart of trading area. Here is the statue of king John I, the one who stimulated the maritime expansion,
thus connecting the west and the east by sea and bringing the new world to the knowledge of Europeans.
Rossio square And side by side with this one is Rossio, the public square since the middle Ages. This is the heart of Lisbon, for a long, long time. The
statue in the middle is of king Peter IV, who fought for liberalism in Portugal in the 19 century. He gave independence to the Portuguese colony of Brazil
becoming its first emperor. His statue was made in Paris, like the two elegant bronze fountains. In front, queen Mary II theatre, made in the 19 century, in
neoclassic style. It was in this square that many important events took place, like feasts, bullfights, public executions, processions, revolutions? Still busy
and a romantic place by night, when light is given to its best parts.
Restauradores square Also a few steps away, there is Restauradores square. Homage to those who restored the Portuguese independence in 1640. It's
next to the restaurants where you can try the typical dishes of Portugal, the tourism office and a number of good Hotels, which stay close to the center.
This is another strategic square, close to the center, and if we take Liberty Avenue up north, we arrive to marquis of Pombal square.
Marquis of Pombal square There's the statue of the marquis, who was a prime minister in the 18 century. He took care of the reconstruction of Portugal
with a powerful iron will and a wrist of steal after the 1755 earthquake, one of the strongest, perhaps the worst, natural catastrophe in Europe. This
square was the end of Lisbon in the 18 century, which means that we are leaving the old town and see the modern plazas.
Saldanha square If we move a little further up, always taking the large and wide avenues, made in the 19 century when Lisbon was developing to the
north, we arrive to Saldanha square. Duke of Saldanha, grandson of marquis of Pombal, was a brave man who fought several battles for freedom and
liberalism in Portugal. Some of his heirs are still the owners of several private plots of land all around the country. In this square starts Republic Avenue,
one of the longest and widest in Lisbon, named in homage to the Portuguese republic, which started in 1910, after the fall of monarchy. We take this
avenue to arrive to Entrecampos Square.
Entrecampos square Entrecampos square has a monument to those who fought in the peninsular war. In this square start a number of long and wide
avenues, which means that this is definitely the modern part of Lisbon. 8-Squares (Spain square)
Not distant is Spain square part from the arch that belonged to a convent of Lisbon ordered by king Philip II of Spain, we have here a XVII century palace
built for a Portuguese count, prior to the trembling of the 18-century.
OTHER MONUMENTS
Aqueduct We have many other monuments. One is the aqueduct, dating from the 18 century, a work of genius, standing firm during the quake. It's more
than 20 kilometers long; it has 109 arches, being the biggest one, on the Guinness book of records, as one of the biggest ogival stone arches ever built in the
world. It's 65 meters high and 29 meters wide. This aqueduct still brings water to the several ancient fountains of Lisbon.
2-Other monuments (Monument to the Discoveries) There is prince Henry at the top of the prow in the monument to the discoveries, built on the north
bank of the river, replica of another that existed for the Portuguese World Exhibition of 1940 that went on around here. This one was made in 1960, 500
years after prince Henry died, and represents the prow of a caravel, with 33 statues, corresponding to kings, princes, navigators, warriors, preachers,
writers, mathematicians, cosmographers and painters. The only female is queen Felipa of Lancaster, mother of Henry the navigator, the brain of the
discoveries. Behind the monument, on the floor, there is a mosaic compass dial, which is all in marble and was offered by the South African government in
1960.
Belem Tower Bethlehem fortress, or Belem, was built to defend and control the trade arriving by boat. It's another jewel of the 16 century in Manueline
style, built from 1515 to 1520 to make crossfire with another one on the south bank of the river. The Portuguese artist, Francisco de Arruda, worked in
Morocco, where Portugal had colonies, from where he brought influences, like the 12 domes, similar to north African ones. It looks like the prow of a boat
facing the river, and its function was a warlike one, but it's undoubtedly a work of art, still the lacework in the white limestone of Lisbon. The mouth of
the river had plenty of forts like this, but most of them are gone with time and earthquakes. This is one of the resistant ones, and the most beautiful and
historical one.
Statue to Christ the King One of the symbols of Lisbon is the statue of Christ on the south bank of the river. Actually, it is called Christ the king, the
highest rank in Portugal in the past. It was made from 1949 to 59 in homage to Portugal neutrality during World War II. Its an initiative of the Portuguese
church and is a replica of the one in Brazil. It stands on a 130 meters high hill and the monument is 110 meters high. It means that its peak is 240 meters
high and can be seen from most parts of the city. It´'s curious to mention that it was started 13 years before the bridge was completed and it is still the
very only monument there is in the south bank of the river, in spite of the long history of Lisbon. It's one of the lit monuments by night, with its golden
reflected light on the river.
Expo 98 As promised, we continue our tour close to Tagus, the husband of Lisbon, which still fetches wealth and color to the capital city. And we arrive
to the east section of Lisbon that was completely renovated in 1998. We talk about the place where the world Exhibition of 1998 was held. Close by the
river, near Vasco da Gama Bridge, which was, in fact, opened 1 month before the exhibition started. Pavilions for 145 countries were made here and of the
still existing ones is the pavilion of Portugal with a suspended roof, a work of genius by a Portuguese architect. Several buildings were made, like a gigantic
one with a round roof, which is still used nowadays for concerts and other shows. The area is on the riverside and is a nice place for some rides on
Sundays both by cable car, bicycle or boat. There are here marinas able to take 500 yachts but are only some of the many in Lisbon. This spot still holds
many other modern theatres that are used today for several shows. It was a part of Lisbon, which was all restored with a modern architecture and works
now as a residential area, and a place of leisure. Here, the cable cars are always running. If we take one of them, we see a totally different face of Lisbon,
than it was before 1998. Not only the all decadent old industries that were erased from this part of the map to give place to all this fresh and
up-to-the-minute look this section took, but also this fantastic flight over the estuary. And all this was made to commemorate the arrival of Vasco da
Gama to India.
6-Other monuments (Expo 98: the Oceanarium) Our tour here is going to end in one of the pavilions which is very much worthwhile to be seen. It's this
huge construction, housing a gigantic oceanarium. We have here more than 700 species of plants and fish in 5 reservoirs. The central one, has 5 million
liters of seawater and represents the global ocean.
PARKS
There are a great variety of parks in Lisbon, most of them with plants from different continents. It's a tradition from the past, when species from different
places, arrived here on the Portuguese ships. We have countless small and big parks scattered all over the town. In most of them, among giant palm trees
from different parts of the world, we have countless species of plants that were introduced here. Portugal has several microclimates and because it never
freezes in Lisbon, plants grow here like in any tropical forest. We can see flowers in full blossom in the winter, here in the so-called city of the 4 springs,
where flowers bloom in the 4 seasons of the year.
Zoo We continue this flora and fauna tour, by visiting one of the best zoos in Europe. The zoo of Lisbon was founded in the end of the 19-century by
king Louis. There are more than 2000 different animals. It's housed in the huge gardens of a palace that belonged to a Portuguese count and this jungle is
inside the city. Among many other funny shows with the animals there are those of dauphins and sea lions. Because Portugal still keeps relationships
with many Portuguese speaking countries in Africa and Brazil, we have many species that are direct gifts and have a proper climate to live a happy life.
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